Living in paradise

I haven’t worn shoes for 5 months; I’ve eaten curry twice a day for 5 months and I’ve been in the ocean everyday for 5 months, hello heaven!

Still here in India, with only 6 weeks left of my 6 month stint, I literally can’t believe how quick my time here has flown by! The waves have been small, with the occasional swell, with big swells due to arrive in the next couple of weeks, I can’t wait!

I have actually started to enjoy driving here, when I first arrived it was an adrenaline rush just getting to the beach, when you have a bus screaming around a blind corner in your lane, almost running you off the road, what can you do but laugh? I drive around now assuming that everyone is drunk, anticipating and expecting anything and everything to happen, in some kind of madness it actually works, when I get home I’m going to be driving my Clio around like it’s a Ferrari!

Its festival season! And I can easily say they are the best I have seen anywhere in the world, the attention to detail is incredible and mind boggling! There’s hundreds of different costumes, with people acting out stories through dance, it’s really incredible, with most of the costumes partially made from plants, it must take hours to assemble the costumes in the heat of the day, respect!

I managed to make a quick trip to Sri Lanka meeting up with friends from home, it was so nice to go back, but I couldn’t believe how much the tourism has boomed in just 3 years since I was last there, but in some ways it’s a good thing, not only are local areas gaining more income, but spots that I had never even heard of where being spoken of by everyone I met. The named spots were becoming overcrowded, pushing people to think outside of the box to hunt for new waves, for example, I spent 6 months over a couple of trips surfing 1 surf spot, unknowing that a super fun reef break that broke left and right was a 5 minute walk away! So all those times I was out competing for waves, I could have been surfing alone just down the beach!

After India I am heading back to Indonesia, I can’t wait to surf all day every day until I am cremated from the sun and crawling up the sand exhausted from the water! I am flying into Bali and using that as my base, planning to island hop for 5 weeks until I fly home.

After Indonesia  I will be home in the UK for 2 weeks before heading back to France for my 3rd season with Feral for the summer, what happens next, I haven’t got a clue, but I have lots of ideas up my sleeve!




soul & surf

Holy shit its hot…

After Mexico, I went straight back to work, coaching in Newquay, with an 8 week countdown until I flew back to France for a summer season coaching with Feral surf tours.

I enjoyed spending  spring in Cornwall, it was great to surf with friends and the weather was amazing!

8 weeks flew by, and before I knew it, I was camping under the stars, living in the dunes at Le Pin Sec, France, where I was welcomed by perfect waves and old friends.

This season was even better than the last, with amazing waves and crazy, awesome people, with the occasional hiccup, like getting food poisoning in my tent, which I hope has now been burned… don’t eat the KFC in Bordeaux.

The day after i got home from France, I was at a wedding, where I managed to fall from a 15ft balcony, landing on my back, where I somehow by miracle, didn’t die and suffered no injuries, apart from a very bruised back and a bump on my head! My Gran always said if I fell from a building i would bounce. I was out of the water for 2 weeks, missing the Cornish September swells – and of coerce, it was pumping and all I could do was sit at home and watch the webcams.

After a few weeks I could move and surf again, so I started hitting the gym hard to help build up my strength and going to yoga classes to keep me moving at Treviglas sports hub – thanks guys for kicking my ass!

I have now teamed up with Stupid clothing, it is great to be representing a brand that promotes athletes and encourages them to be themselves.

Halloween is my favourite day of the year, so I wanted to do something special. I organized a fancy dress surf, with the proceeds going to the Wave Project, which is a charity I have previously volunteered for, teaching children and young adults with learning difficulties how to surf. I contacted several companies, with overwhelming support from:

Korev Larger, skinners brewery,, carve magazine, surfgirl, bahru boutique, finistirre, weever clothing, stupid clothing, oggy wax, northcore, Treviglas sports hub, Feral, Nalu beads, Surfdome, Urban beach, Osprey, Quiksilver surf school Newquay & seduction surfboards, thanks guys!

The day couldn’t have been any better, with sunny skies and 2-3ft clean waves in the bay, ghouls and creatures started to emerge and enter the water, with people surfing in costumes, from creepy clowns, to zombie grannies, which also brought spectators, press and photographers down to the beach.

On the 1st November I began my 47 hour journey to India, I have now been here for 3 weeks and it has flown by! I am surf coaching out here for Soul & surf, a company based in Varkala, Kerela SW India.

India has blown my mind, completely exceeded expectations, I cant wait to see how the rest of the season goes, we have a great team here, driving is a crazy, heart pounding, adrenaline fuelled experience and I haven’t had the dreaded ‘Delhi belly’ yet…

The year so far has been amazing and its not over yet, but it has gone so fast! I don’t have a clue where I am heading after India, but I’m sure I will have a plan soon! I can hear Indonesia calling me back, its been a while… but then again there is so much more to see, so who knows what could happen!

Soul & surf info:

Feral surf camp info:

Stupid clothing:



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Welcome to Tacoland…

Sat on the sofa in layers of clothes clutching a cup of tea, being able to run fingers through untangled hair usually means one thing, I’m home. Returning from a 5 month trip exploring Mexico, with a quick visit to Las Vegas, LA, Hollywood and Venice beach.

Leaving the Uk on the 8th of November 2014, I set out for Mexico, with dreams of surfing perfect waves, eating tacos and owning a donkey called Eric, all achieved, apart from the ownership of a Donkey, but I did get to call one Eric.

Mexico was new to me, so it was nice to to go into the country with no idea what to expect, with so many horror stories of girls being abducted, drug wars and robberies, yet none of this was enough to put me off spending 5 months out there checking it out.

I spent the first 3 months in a small surf town called Sayulita, working as a surfing instructor. The wave was over-rated, but was perfect for beginners, it never got big, but had consistent, small, fun longboardable waves. It does get extremely crowded however, with aggressive locals, but you can still catch waves.

The surrounding area of Punta Mita is beautiful, with lots of waves in the area, crystal waters and fun peaks to surf.

The town of Syulita was super fun, with great restaurants and bars and colourful buildings. After 3 months in Sayuilta and after suffering 3 weeks of ear infections from the dirty water, i left work and headed south to find cleaner waters and challenging waves.

On the 8 hour bus journey south to La Ticla, it was great to see that there was still parts of the world that hadnt been taken over by Mc Donalds. The locals I met along the way were great, drinking beers at 7.30am seems to be normal and they were really welcoming and they always seemed to be smiling. The languae barrier could be quite amusing at times, with my knowledge of the Spanish languge being minimal, asking for directions could turn into a game of pictionary.

La ticla is a small town with a population of 250 locals, if you dont surf, you would probably go insane with boredom. Sometimes if the surf was bad the only excitement we would get would come from the new delivery of bananas in the shop. I was camping on the beach in front of a perfect wave that breaks from the rivermouth, i found heaven. It was great to be sat in the ocean watching humpback whales and dolphins jumping out of the water and making the occasional beach fire to keep warm in the cooler evenings. I camped there for 2 months, robbery free, taking a couple of trips down the coast to stay and surf in Nexpa, a long left hander, where last year visitors and locals had to avoid open gunfire and grenades from the ongoing drug war. Apart from finding a machiene gun shell on the floor, i didnt get caught up in any of it.

After spending so much time in Mexico I found it very difficult to leave, i met some amazing people, surfed amazing waves and had some crazy experiences.

The plan was to travel to LA for a night then to get the bus to Las Vegas for 2 nights, and to stay in Venice for 3 nights, with a quick trip to Hollywood.

LA was scary, but when we got to Vegas the next day it was just as i expected but on a much bigger scale! it is like Butlins on steroids… so many people, no one with a care in the world, open bars for women, street performers, there was even a couple of guys holding up signs saying ‘kick me in the nuts for $20’ or ‘too ugly for prostitution’, it was simply mad! and i loved it! Venice and Hollywood was fun too, but i will definetly be going back to Vegas on my next trip to the USA!

After being home for a week I have had time to sit back and look through all of the photos and to reflect on the past couple of months and it really has been a couple of crazy months! I will definetly be returning to Mexico, there are so many waves to surf and places to explore, its going to take a while!

I will be returning to France at the end of June for the summer season, working for Feral, camping in France under the stars, surfing great waves and meeting great poeple! Follow the link below to check them out if you are thinking of getting away and learning to surf this summer!

La ticla, Mexico La ticla, Mexico secret spot La ticla, Mexico Mexican sunset Scary frog in the toilet! friends in Mexico surfing in Punta Mita Eric the donkey Hollywood

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Girl gone Feral

I have had an ear infection for the past 2 weeks, which has allowed me to have some time to sit down and write.

I am currently sat in my apartment in Sayulita, Mexico, looking back through photos and videos of the year; I can’t believe how fast it’s flown by.

I spent 3 months of summer camping and working as a surf coach in France for Feral, based in Le Pin Sec, Bordeaux.

I had so much fun, I was working with some amazing people, surfing everyday and loved camping under the stars. By the end of the season my tent looked as though I had left the door open during a sand storm, I’m pretty sure they burnt it when I left.

Flying back the UK broke my heart, I cried my eyes out, it was so sad to see the camp being packed away for next season and to leave everyone behind, but I was looking forward to seeing friends and family back home and to find out about their summer antics!

Just before heading to Mexico, I headed up to Scotland on my first girls trip to compete in the 2014 Thurso surf festival. After 900 miles stuck in a car it was a relief to be rewarded with all time waves.

The first morning in Thurso we drove down to the pier and saw the point producing some huge barrels sucking up off the reef, feeling brave, my crazy companions Lucy Campbell and Jaide Lowe paddled out to score some waves, gaining respect from everyone in and out of the water.

The surf dropped off after the first day, so it was great to finally surf Thurso and it lived up to its reputation, such a mechanical wave, super fast and fun!

I had a shocker at the contest but Lucy took the win and I couldn’t be happier for her, she was charging from day 1 and she gave it everything she had. It was great to see the girls pushing it out there and even getting cheered on from the guys.

I have now been here in Mexico for just over 5 weeks, surfing everyday up until now because my ears feels like someone is banging on the drums with a baseball bat. I love the atmosphere here in Sayulita, it’s a great little surf town, with lots of friendly faces and good vibes. The surf has been pretty small and we have had the occasional swell that has produced some super fun waves. I’m here with fellow Newquay girl Jen Pendlebury who has been killing it on her longboard and taking it to town on her shortboard when it’s big enough.

After my stay in Sayulita i plan on making my way down the coast, surfing along the way, until its time to go home.






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Chasing Rainbows

Since returning to the UK life has been non stop!

My diary is full, work and contest dates are filling up the months, as well as squeezing in daily surfs, early starts and early bed times for me!

The first contest of the year was on the weekend, The English National surfing championships, where i competed in the open women’s short and long boarding divisions, sadly getting knocked out after the semi and quarter finals, not the results i wanted! but you learn from your losses and now i know what i need to work on.

After weeks of training with the sports Hub i feel fitter and stronger and I’m starting to see the results in my surfing, my paddle endurance has always been good, but now i feel as though i can paddle faster and for longer, as well as feeling the difference in the power of my legs, i cant wait to see what other changes happen.

I have also teamed up with Bekl accessories, Funstorm clothing and Over-board waterproof accessories, as well as Java Palava, all who i am really excited to be working with this year.


Bekl specialize in men and women’s surf  jewelry and clothing, there’s something for everyone and its all hand made in the UK! i don’t know how they have the patience to make such things, they are great 🙂


Funstorm offer functional lifestyle clothing for everyone, taking inspirations from extreme sports athletes. Their clothing is bright and colorful with great designs, i love their stuff, take a look at their catalouge and get your summer gear in now!


Over-Board are the leaders in waterproof bags and cases, with accessories and bags for everyone, from 120L travel bags, to waterproof iPod cases and waterproof headphones, who wouldn’t want to listen to music whilst they were surfing??


Java Palava are going to be supplying me with hot beverages and healthy snacks before and after surfs, currently in the Newquay area in a portable Barista van, brewing up freshly ground coffee and other hot and cold drinks, just what you need before or after a surf! Look out for them, they are super friendly and their coffee is the best i have tasted and i drink i lot of coffee!

Java Palava

fun waves in the sun!

English Nationals 2014

Devon schools came to Quiksilver

English nationals







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Losses, Gains & Reality

My 4 month trip to Indonesia is over and its back to reality.

I’ve been on a few trips now and I must say I have never scored better waves, I surfed every day no matter what, trying to ignore the spaghetti arms, rashes and daily sun burns.

This trip took me to places I have wanted to go since I was 15 and it was better than I could imagine. Indonesia is made up of thousands of islands, I only visited a  handful, I just wish I had the funds and time to go everywhere, its such an amazing country.

I have travelled a lot and yet I have never travelled alone. I was in Bali, staying in Uluwatu, but the winds were relentless and made the west coast of Bali turn into a daily mess, if I wanted to surf 30 mph onshore surf, I would have stayed at home. Our only salvation was a 40 minute bike ride to the east coast, which was a  daily pain as the roads are full of pot holes and the local drivers are crazier than Travis Pastrana. I like living! So I decided it was time to go on a solo mission to Sumbawa.

I’ve wanted to go since I was fifteen and it has more than lived up to my expectations, it’s an amazing island with a long stretch of coast backed by  hills and mountains. Its how I imagined Bali would have been years and years ago, I will be definitely going back!

My first morning  at Lakey Peak I woke to see a group of horses running freely along the beach with head high clean waves rolling through breaking over the reef, I wanted to dive in there so fast I nearly forgot to put on my bikini.

After Sumbawa I headed straight to Sumatra as I  heard rumours of non crowded perfect waves and that’s exactly what I found.

Sumatra is a strict Muslim community so I had to cover up at all time even down to the water’s edge which was an experience.

I definitely scored some of the best waves of my trip here, perfect peeling, barrelling waves on a daily basis, I’ve never surfed so much in my life, when it was time to go home it was a struggle to leave.

When I arrived back in Bali to catch my flight home I was hit with some news that hit hard, a friend I had met in Sumbawa had  passed away, I only knew him for a month but we hung out every day and surfed together, he was an amazing guy, super positive, always wanted to surf, never had a bad word to say about anyone and had a crazy infectious laugh, we would always be setting each other off and would often get annoyed looks from other people. He was going to come out to Sumatra but he never made it. I will never forget him, my thoughts go out to all his friends and family he will be missed but never forgotten. He was only 32 it has made me realise how final death is and instead of running we should embrace it, don’t be afraid of death be afraid of the half lived life.

Sat back at home seems serial, seeming as this time last week I would have been surfing in a bikini, I have parted ways with Marley, but this is going to be a great, I have just been offered a sponsorship with the sports hub, Newquay, where I shall be training for the contest season and to improve my surfing fitness, as well as working in France over the summer with Feral surf tours.

Time to get saving all over again and planning the next trip!

backhand fun

horses at Lakey peak lombok boat trip



my little friend

sumatra sunset


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Indonesia – ive missed you!

After a summer spent working my ass off, i cant believe im finally here! not that i don’t like working, i love my job, but come the end of September, there is no work and the waters turn Baltic.

I was looking at my calender the other day and apparently ive been here a month now?? it seems like ive only just got here! but its not too bad i still have 3 months of paradise left, then its straight back to work 🙂

Its been great going back to some of the spots that i have surfed and visited on previous trips and its great to see that some of the friends i made before still remember me and my friends.

So far we have been blessed with good swells and hot weather with the occasional, yet welcomed tropical shower. There has only been a couple of days i haven’t got in the water, the waves have been awesome.

I have been dying to see some wildlife since ive been here, Balian, a surf spot on the west coast of Bali has been having daily shark sightings, but when i stayed there i never saw any, although one day i heard a big splash behind me and everyone got out of the water, so i followed…But i did see my first shark in Bali the other day jump out of the water when i was surfing down at Echo beach, he was only little so he didn’t bother me with his presence. The most exciting thing ive seen was a huntsman spider that crawled out from under my bed one evening, after realizing that he didn’t want to leave, i had to kill it. Im not a huge wuss when it comes to spiders, but after one bit me in Sri Lanka and left a hole in my foot, i wasn’t going to take any chances.

Christmas has just passed (i hope you guys had a great one by the way!) and there was a great atmosphere all day here in Canggu, i surfed until my skin was cremated and spent the evening dining on meal that didn’t consist of rice, i went to bed early and fell into a deep food coma, waking up early for a boxing day surf, with the ocean all to ourselves, feeling sorry for all of the people in their beds rotting with hangovers.

New years eve draws closer and i cant help but reflect on what an amazing year it has been, im sad its ending, but i have big hopes and goals for 2014, so bring it on!

My plan is to go to the Gili islands for new years eve to break my alcahol ban, im going to go wild, new years eve is one of the best days of the year (after halloween – you dont get to eat as many sweets ). After a couple days of relaxing im going to pop over to Lombok with some friends and get back to surfing, maybe have a little trip over to west Sumbawa, i cant wait!


After that i do not know where i shall go, i guess i will be following the waves.




monkey at Padang

echo beach

me and jess



me and Grahem

a stormy day in Medewi




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The death of the 3’2 and i can hear Indo calling!

Well, i think its safe to say that summer is officially over…

But what a summer we’ve had! Endless sunshine and although we may have had the occasional flat spell, we have had some pretty fun waves!

I have worked my ass off, but have still made time to enjoy myself and now that the season is over all i want to do is surf as much as i can before i go away.

This year has been so much fun down in Newquay, all of the contests have been a good laugh, i may not have got the results that i wanted, but i have still come away smiling 🙂 i even managed to get a sneaky little trip away to France in September which was super fun.

This summer i also finally got the chance to teach my family to surf, who all took to the water like they had done it 1000 times 🙂

Sadly the days of the 3’2 have come to an end, the water is getting colder and the wind is turning nippy, i went for my last surf in my summer wetsuit yesterday and i swear i nearly had frostbite, winter is on its way, even though i dread the thought of putting on 5m of rubber, boots, gloves and the dreaded twat cap, i do look forward to consistent waves, which the south west is blessed with in the winter months… its a nice thought, but in reality i am a wimp, so i have booked a ticket to Indonesia for 4 months, leaving on the 20th November coming home at the end of March, i plan to surf my ass off everyday and to stuff my face with the local delicacies, im so excited! Indonesia is my favorite place in the world, the surf is amazing, the food is amazing and the country is beautiful, i cant wait.


(c) Julia Macintosh

(c) Julia Macintosh

(c) Ian Stackhouse

(c) Ian Stackhouse

(c) Julia Macintosh

(c) Julia Macintosh

(c) Julia Macintosh

(c) Julia Macintosh

(c) Ian Stackhouse

(c) Ian Stackhouse

twins Heather hen do boardmastes 2013

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English nationals, sunshine and is that a 3,2 your wearing?

These past couple of weeks we have been blessed with sunshine and good waves, who’d of thought it! literally 2 weeks ago i was surfing in a 5,4 with hood, boots and gloves and if someone had told me that i would be surfing in just a 3,2 this week i would of told them they were nuts! but its official! the winter accessories are off and staying off!

Its a rare thing to have sunshine and good waves! it changes everyone’s mood and everyone is more motivated to get out and about and surf more 🙂

The English nationals were held over the weekend, where it was great to see some old faces 🙂 sadly i had a shocker and got knocked out of the shortboard event due to an asthma attack, which made it impossible for me to surf. The conditions that day were super tricky but it was great to see the girls attacking it.  I was still able to compete in the woman’s longboard final where I had some super fun waves, but sadly it wasn’t enough to take the title, but it was great fun and the waves were pumping 🙂

Back to reality now, the sun has gone and the winds are up, how i love you Cornwall.

I have my surf coach and lifeguard coming up this week so preying for some more sunshine and fun waves!

first surf of the year in my 3,2 :)

food time

small fun surf

lots of sun cream!

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Surfer Page up and running

Hey guys my Facebook profile is now up where I will be uploading photos and putting up updates of my travels and other weird stuff that I get up to, click on the photo below, and feel free to like it, thanks for the support! 🙂

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