I haven’t worn shoes for 5 months; I’ve eaten curry twice a day for 5 months and I’ve been in the ocean everyday for 5 months, hello heaven!
Still here in India, with only 6 weeks left of my 6 month stint, I literally can’t believe how quick my time here has flown by! The waves have been small, with the occasional swell, with big swells due to arrive in the next couple of weeks, I can’t wait!
I have actually started to enjoy driving here, when I first arrived it was an adrenaline rush just getting to the beach, when you have a bus screaming around a blind corner in your lane, almost running you off the road, what can you do but laugh? I drive around now assuming that everyone is drunk, anticipating and expecting anything and everything to happen, in some kind of madness it actually works, when I get home I’m going to be driving my Clio around like it’s a Ferrari!
Its festival season! And I can easily say they are the best I have seen anywhere in the world, the attention to detail is incredible and mind boggling! There’s hundreds of different costumes, with people acting out stories through dance, it’s really incredible, with most of the costumes partially made from plants, it must take hours to assemble the costumes in the heat of the day, respect!
I managed to make a quick trip to Sri Lanka meeting up with friends from home, it was so nice to go back, but I couldn’t believe how much the tourism has boomed in just 3 years since I was last there, but in some ways it’s a good thing, not only are local areas gaining more income, but spots that I had never even heard of where being spoken of by everyone I met. The named spots were becoming overcrowded, pushing people to think outside of the box to hunt for new waves, for example, I spent 6 months over a couple of trips surfing 1 surf spot, unknowing that a super fun reef break that broke left and right was a 5 minute walk away! So all those times I was out competing for waves, I could have been surfing alone just down the beach!
After India I am heading back to Indonesia, I can’t wait to surf all day every day until I am cremated from the sun and crawling up the sand exhausted from the water! I am flying into Bali and using that as my base, planning to island hop for 5 weeks until I fly home.
After Indonesia I will be home in the UK for 2 weeks before heading back to France for my 3rd season with Feral for the summer, what happens next, I haven’t got a clue, but I have lots of ideas up my sleeve!